mattallen37 wrote:The RIS sets used studded technic parts, and the NXT sets use studless technic parts. Both types of beams play nicely together, and all gears, pins, axles, bushings etc. are identical (i.e. they are compatible, not necessarily to say that the NXT sets includes the same parts or quantities as the RIS sets).
While they can be used together, in practice the compatibility isn't
that great. Studded Technics works with even numbers, studless Techincs works with uneven numbers. (So it is uncommon to see them freely mixed together, unless people want to use System parts for styling.) The difference causes some subtle issues with a lot of parts.
Gears: The old gears where made to use with the studded beams. Notice that studded beams have an extra 0.5 space at the end, compared to studless beams. The old gears uses that extra space, the newer gears does not. This is usually not a problem, but if you want to place two gears in a 90 deg angle, the beams wouldn't match up if use studless beams and "studded" gears (or the other way around). You can fix this by using half-width brushes, but it is not optimal as it is weaker and more space consuming. It is just a matter of choosing the right gear for the job though.
Axles: If you have a lot of axles from studded sets, you should have good amount of axles with length of: 4, 6 and 8. However studless building mostly requires uneven lengths like 3, 5 and 7. So while they are completely compatible, you will simply rarely end up using a lot of the 4, 6 and 8 length axles in studless building and you might find yourself lacking sufficient amounts of 5 and 7.
Other:Some special parts have been replaced with versions that match better with studless building, for example the differential (RIS 2.0) which have changed from a width of 4 to 3. It is perfectly usable, though you would usually need a width of 5 and the old style gears. (I still find the old one superior for heavy duty stuff though.) The turntable included in UBS (Ultimate Builders Set) is studded, which is a real pain to work with in a studless construction, because of the even width and slightly awkward position of the holes. (The little bit of pneumatics in UBS is also studded, but they are quite similar to the studless versions so there shouldn't be any issues.)
To sum up (or tl:dr):
- You will usually want to stick to either studless or studded building when constructing something. While it is possible to mix, there is rarely much gain with it and it can easily complicate matters if you are not careful.
- While many parts do not contain studs, they where designed to be used together with studded parts and in a few cases this can make them less useful together with studless building.
- If you only do studless building, there is a fair amount of parts you will end up not using, either because it is not useful or because there are better alternatives. (With that said, most parts are useful and if you not have enough of a certain part, you can use the "less preferable" alternatives in most cases.)
I would recommend NXC too, but since you seem to have a good grip on programming I will point out that there are quite a few different text-based languages for NXT out there. If you fancy some particular language, there might be NXT version out there. This forum is probably the place if you want help on NXC though.
Also since you already know programming fairly well you will probably want to focus on learning how to build. There are some books out there, but there are also plenty of free building instructions available on the internet. Try these:
Lots of building and programming instructions:
http://www.nxtprograms.com/index2.html
A few models by the guys from the old official Mindstorms forum (including me):
http://ricquin.net/lego/instructions/
Bonus models by MDPs and JMDPs:
http://mindstorms.lego.com/en-us/suppor ... l%201.aspx
As far as I know it is not possible to program the RCX on 64-bit systems because of driver incomparability, but if you have the time I would recommend you to try building some of the models from UBS nevertheless. They might be studded but they are great models anyway, I especially liked the disc shooter and plotter. (The software should be able run if I remember correctly, but you might have to mess with the comparability settings.)